Some years back, I spent part of a summer leading cycling trips in Nova Scotia on an itinerary that included Lunenburg, Annapolis Royal and Wolfville. This past June, we had a private group of keen cyclists and I realized this was my chance to return to a very special corner of Canada to ride on a trip that we have been operating for decades. Halifax has a redeveloped waterfront with some wonderful architecture and a thoughtfully designed pedestrianized boardwalk that is a pleasure to stroll. I managed a reservation at the always packed Bicycle Thief Cafe, and strolled the waterfront taking in the salty air and buzzing vibe.
Lunenburg
The next morning, Day 1 of the trip, we drove out of Halifax stopping to visit Peggy’s Cove, probably the most photographed site in Nova Scotia. Our cycling would start in Chester, a charming sea-side village and as we began our odyssey west it was one picturesque village after another. Lunch was in Mahone Bay and after that we were on our way to picturesque Lunenburg, staying at historic Lunenburg Arms. Our first of many extraordinary dinners was at Lincoln Food, a fusion restaurant with delicious food. Lunenburg is the quintessential east coast village with a gorgeous waterfront, cool shops and cafes and the Bluenose II, a replica of the famous namesake. This ship has one of the largest mainsails in the world, measuring over 11,150 sq. ft.!
Waking up in Lunenburg to sunny skies, we did a ride out to Blue Rocks and Peninsula 1 & 2, each spur a lovely quiet road. I wrote in my journal – Fantastic. Quiet roads, great pavement – 10/10 (see ride stats following blog post). This ride would compare with my favourite rides anywhere. We celebrated with dinner at the eclectic and fun Beach Pea Kitchen & Bar, featuring farm to table cuisine.
Annapolis Royal
Leaving the South Shore, we shuttled across the island to Annapolis Royal, where we began our ride out to Grand Pre historic settlement, a re-creation of the settlement from 1680, where we visited with a local guide who filled us with the history of l’Acadie, its people and culture. We finished the day with a visit to Fort Anne Historic Site, which was built by Scottish settlers to protect the harbour. We stayed at the Hillsdale House, an inn built in 1852.
On our second day in Annapolis Royal, we cycled out to the village of Bear River where the Sissiboo Cafe boasts great coffee and baked goods. Afterwards, we stopped off for a wine tour and tasting at Bear River Vineyards, which occupies a masterfully renovated bank barn that was built in 1883. Vines were first planted along the shores of Bear River in 1611 by French settlers. Today, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Gamay are produced along with hardier hybrids. Back in Annapolis Royal, we visited gardens and the eclectic shops in town. We took in an outdoor concert at the wee amphitheatre in town and then enjoyed another great dinner in town. The Whiskey Teller is our usual go to and a fantastic option.
Wolfville
The ride from Annapolis Royal to Wolfville is over a metric century (100km) in length and some in the group were keen to ride the whole way. The first stop was to visit a really interesting woman, an artist who had acquired a historic church and has made it her home, filled with cool art and antiques. In Melvern Square, those on the shorter ride started and together we made our way to Wolfville, home to Acadia University and a vibrant community. Our ‘total moving time’ for the century was 4h30; max speed 53km/hr as we whistled our way across the Annapolis Valley. In Wolfville, we stayed at Stella Rose B&B, a very unique and special place with very welcoming hosts. This was the group’s favourite inn/B&B of the trip.
Our last day’s ride was one of the group’s favourites, out through Blomidon Park, stopping in charming Canning for lunch and then wine tasting at Planter’s Vineyard, an artisanal winery with a 155-year-old timber frame barn. We enjoyed dinner at Grand Pre’s restaurant Le Caveau which is one of the culinary highlights of the region and over local wines produced here, we toasted to our time in Nova Scotia. The group agreed that this region of Eastern Canada is such a delight to ride and explore. The traffic is light, scenery lovely, people friendly and cultural attractions numerous. For road cyclists in particular, this region offers some of the most enjoyable cycling in North America.
Ride Stats
| Distance cycled; Elevation gain; Moving time* | Guide’s comments on ride | |
|---|---|---|
| Day 1 | 49.7km; 500m; 2h20 moving time | Superb ride. Relatively quiet roads – 9/10 |
| Day 2 | 51.2km; 475m; 2h20 moving time | Fantastic. Quiet roads, great pavement – 10/10 |
| Day 3 | 56.2km; 480m. 2h30 moving time | Good ride. Quiet roads, good pavement – 9/10 |
| Day 4 | 60km; 750m; 2h25 moving time | Good ride, loved Bear River village and winery – 8/10 |
| Day 5 | 117km; 750m; 4h30 moving time; shorter ride – 57km; 400m | Beautiful valley. Great ride – 9/10 |
| Day 6 | 74km; 765m; 3h20 moving time | Fantastic. Quiet roads, great pavement – 10/10 |
*Keep in mind that this was a fit group who wanted to do and did additional mileage (some days not included here). They were all riding race/gravel bikes with 700×30 tires. Moving time is the time pedaling but we were out longer visiting cultural sites, cafes and restaurants, etc.
If You Go
Great Explorations offers a South Shore trip that starts in Halifax and includes stays in Halifax, Hubbards, Chester and Lunenburg, staying in hotels, inns and B&Bs. The South and North Shore trip starts from Halifax and stays in Lunenburg, Annapolis Royal and Wolfville.
Randonnee Tours offers the same trips and a few other variations, tour lengths and hotel options, including staying at the ultra-luxurious Muir Hotel in downtown Halifax.
Straight Talk
The cycling is really, very good and a moderate trip so regular bikes are suitable. The hotels are not as luxurious or updated as where we stay in Europe but the group enjoyed the charming nature and hospitality of these inns in each of Halifax, Lunenburg, Annapolis Royal and Wolfville. I can’t wait to go back. Enough said.
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