Our first tour in Japan was in 2018 and was an immediate success. Our itinerary explored the bucolic Noto Peninsula, from Wajima to Suzu, Wakura Onsen, Kanazawa and Kaga. Unfortunately, on January 1, 2024, a 7.5 magnitude earthquake struck north-east of Suzu, which devastated the region to the north. We explored Japan in search of new destinations, with the goal of providing a culturally rich region with great biking, minimal traffic, superb scenery, and more. After months of searching, we decided on a trip from Hikone to Kaga which is a very rural and quiet region that has much to offer. The trip ran many times throughout 2024 and 2025, and I finally had the opportunity to guide it this past October. We had a fantastic group, a wonderful mix of travellers – so much fun with every single one of them!
Note: The ‘Ride Stats’ provided were mine from riding with the group on the longer rides. There is the opportunity to ride less each day, with shuttles.
Day 1
The trip starts from Hikone, which boasts one of the country’s original twelve castles constructed in the Edo period. After meeting at our lake-side hotel the Grand Mercure Lake Biwa, we fit everyone for bikes and rode a warm-up ride to the castle with time to visit, before looping back to our hotel. We met for the first, of many, daily onsens (hot spring pools) and then had a welcome reception before dinner at a fantastic Japanese fusion restaurant, just a short walk from the hotel.
Ride Stats: Distance: 28 km; Elevation gain: 95 m. Moving time: 1h30
Day 2
Today, we cycled a bicycle path north along the shoreline of Lake Biwa, the largest lake in Japan, stopping for lunch in a village en-route. Our guides knew the owner who was excited to greet us and talk about her unique power rice balls. From here, we continued toward the Mihama Lake district and stopped at a cool café for soft-serve ice-cream before continuing to our traditional onsen hotel, the Gran Resort Mikatagoko, on the Sea of Japan. The onsens are what make this region unique and for any first-time participant in the onsen, it is an experience! Suffice it to say I didn’t use the shower in my room even once on this trip – why would I, when there were fantastic onsens to enjoy? On this night, we ate at the hotel restaurant with almost everyone wearing yukata (kimono) provided by the hotel. They are quite comfortable and stylish!
Ride Stats: Distance: 67 km; Elevation gain: 450 m; Moving time: 3h30
Day 3
We woke up to sunny skies and a few people in the group were eager for a longer ride, so we split up, with six heading out early. This day’s ride was delightful, following along the Mihama Lakes with little to no traffic. There are fishing villages along the route, and it was fun to see fisherman bringing in their catches. There are also plum orchards and thatched-roof boat shelters that made for a scenic ride. In Umiyama, we deviated for the long option to Ogawa – around a peninsula with stunning views (and monkeys!) and virtually no traffic. We joined the rest of the group at a local restaurant at one of the five lakes and then walked to a local sake maker for a tour and tasting. Back at the hotel, the Shikubu Onsen, we had invited a local woman who spoke good English to join the ladies in our group for a Q&A, which she – and they – enjoyed enormously. We had dinner at the hotel, on this night a hot-pot feast.
Ride Stats: Distance: 72 km; Elevation gain: 520 m; Moving time: 3h30
Day 4
This ride was another favourite of the trip, along a spectacular coastline with white sand beaches and surfers who enjoy the waves that roll in regularly. There was one 8 km section with some traffic and although this group cycled it without issue, there was an option to shuttle for anyone who preferred to. Along the way, we stopped for a tour of a wealthy historic merchant’s house from the last century and afterward had a great Italian-style lunch – Yum. We also rode through stretches of bamboo and pine forests, adding even more variety to the day. At our hotel in Echizen, the Kyukamura Echizen boasted a great onsen, this one reached by a funicular.
Ride Stats: Distance: 71 km; Elevation gain: 650 m; Moving time: 3h30
Day 5
On this day, we started with a visit to a local forge where a master blacksmith – 83 years young – crafted knives and swords. There is a small museum to visit and then it was off on bikes, along more coastline. Later, we stopped at a lovely coastal restaurant, one of my favourites of the trip, where we enjoyed green curry, fresh berry drinks, and delicious desserts. At the end of the day, we arrived to Oshima Island, accessed via a long red wooden walking bridge. The island is a sacred place occupied only by a shrine and a primitive forest with walking trails. Back at our hotel, Rurikoh, where we stayed for two nights, we headed straight to the onsen and then to everyone’s favourite restaurant of the trip: Lull, a French restaurant with a renowned chef who is only 28 years old! The courses included sweet potatoes and shrimp, eggplant and pear, salad with eggplant and veggies, fried mushrooms, butternut squash soup, Spanish mackerel, beef filet and turnip, sweet potato ice-cream, coffee, tea and a slice of cake. Like in many of the other restaurants we dined in, we showed our gratitude with applause when he came out to acknowledge our praise.
Ride Stats: Distance: 74 km; Elevation gain: 720 m; Moving time: 3h50
Day 6
On this day, the ride began along a beautiful beachside bike path before turning inland from the Sea of Japan toward Lake Kigata on yet another superb route. The path led us to Kaga and an Italian restaurant called Alla Contadina, where I’ve eaten before and which remains memorable. Although we love Japanese cuisine on this trip, everyone appreciates the fusion restaurants that combine Italian and French influences in their cooking.
After lunch, we visited a woodturning artisan for a tour and then continued to our hotel, the Rurikoh. Some of us went for a walk along the Kakusenkei Gorge and Ayatori Bridge on the Saishoji River, followed by a bit of shopping in the nearby hip district. This was an ‘on your own’ night for dinner, and there were plenty of options just a short stroll from the hotel.
Ride Stats: Distance: 48 km; Elevation gain: 295 m; Moving time: 3h
Day 7
Yet another favourite ride, this one climbed up to a reservoir and back on quiet roads before looping to the Takigahara Café and farm property, which includes a craft workshop, sauna, and more. The food was super delicious, and the gorgonzola cheesecake was irresistible — I dare you not to have a piece. Afterwards, we cycled to the Natadera Temple, which features a beautiful garden and temple complex and is one of the most impressive I’ve visited in Japan.
We had our final night reception in the gardens of our luxurious hotel and then walked to our restaurant, Kaze, where we included drinks for our last evening together. The group decided the husbands and wives should split up, and it made for a very festive night. Back at the hotel, we convinced the karaoke bar to stay open for us, and our local guide demonstrated yet another of his talents by singing in Japanese. Who knew?
Ride Stats: Distance: 58 km; Elevation gain: 560 m; Moving time: 3h18
Day 8
On this trip, everyone could easily depart on their own schedule, and with the complimentary hotel shuttle, it was simple to continue to their next destination. Our guides and I went on to lead another trip from Kyoto to Koyasan, read our stories from the road here.
If You Go
Great Explorations offers an 8-day Classic trip from Kyoto to Kaga in the Spring and Fall, some of the best months to travel in this region are May and October. Expect average daily highs of 18–23°C and plenty of sunshine. The trip attributes check almost every box. The hotels are somewhat more casual than those we use in Europe, but they are the best in each of the villages we stay in and are clean, comfortable, and traditional onsen-style accommodations. Although some have Western-style beds, others feature tatami rooms with plush futons, made up while you’re at dinner.
It is important to book this trip well in advance because hotel options and availability are quite limited.
We are frequently asked whether e-bikes are necessary for our trips. This trip is rated moderate, but there are some hills and longer options. Approximately 25% of people booking our trips choose e-bikes. Those riding regular bikes have a choice of hybrid or gravel bikes. Our guides ride regular bikes, so e-bikes are free to ride faster if they like, but as you will see in the video from our recent trip, e-bikes generally ride at the same average speed as regular bikes.
Testimonials
“I want to give props to the guides who may have been the best team we’ve ever traveled with. Highest kudos to both of them.”
– James S., San Francisco, CA
“The trip, region, events, vehicle support, and bikes all exceeded expectations.”
– Rob M., Huntsville, ON
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