Although we operate over one hundred trips in over 24 countries all over the world, we also have a pretty amazing trip right here in B.C., in the Canadian Gulf Islands. The Gulf Islands are part of the same island archipelago that includes the San Juan Islands in the United States. We actually start this trip from Victoria, B.C. Victoria is on Vancouver Island and is the capital of B.C. for good reason.
Victoria was made a crown colony in 1858 and has a dynamic, thriving culture scene situated in a spectacular natural environment. The parliament buildings are there of course (circa 1893) and the Empress Hotel (circa 1907) in all its glory. Not to mention the harbourfront, with seals bobbing their heads in the calm waters.
Our trip starts here partly because the cycling in this cycling-crazed town is great, with bike paths and lanes everywhere. Our trip covers this part of Vancouver Island, then two days on Salt Spring, then two days on Galiano. The only drawback for some people is the fact that the islands are hilly, with some steep but short climbs. With the advent of e-bikes and a plethora of new restaurants and music venues, dare I say this should be a very popular trip indeed. What follows is a blog on my most recent trip, in July of 2024, with a fabulous group of people. The group included a sibling reunion with friends, some of whom had traveled with us before and others for whom this would be their first active trip with Great Explorations.
Day 1
We met at 2 p.m. at the luxurious Laurel Point Inn, which suitably impressed everyone. Hey, it’s on the waterfront, has outstanding views from each room, great service and is steps to the harbour, restaurants, etc. We enjoyed a pleasant warm-up ride east of Victoria, much on biking paths past lakes and back to the historic district of Victoria. We were back at 4:30 p.m. and had some free time before our walking tour with a wonderful guide who lead us through town on foot, with stories about the Indigenous Peoples of this land, and the explorers who came and settled here, through the Parliament buildings, Empress Hotel, and more. We finished the tour at 10 Acres for our welcome reception (drinks on us!) and the first of many fine meals.
Day 2
On this day, a couple in the group wanted to reach Butchart Gardens and did but everyone else wanted to stay together and ride to 10 Mile Point. This is our favourite local ride in Victoria and we made it back to Village Restaurant by lunch. Back along Rockland, we visited Craigdarroch Castle – built by coal baron Robert Dunsmuir during the reign of Queen Victoria and now a national Historic Site -, the Lieutentant General’s house at Government House, and then back to Laurel Point Inn. For dinner on this night, we went to Craft, a new restaurant on the waterfront. There are so many great restaurants but the two we dined at on this trip were two of the best. Bellies happy, we sashayed our way along the waterfront home. Someone suggested that it was a good thing we were biking to burn off the food we were consuming.
Day 3
With the ferry schedule offering a noon ferry from Swartz Bay to Fulford Harbour, Salt Spring, we departed Victoria at 8:45 a.m. and cycled up what is known as the Galloping Goose cycling path (no cars, yah) to Mattick’s Farm, the ideal stop for coffee and a break, before continuing on to Swartz Bay. The ferry is a quick 35 minutes to Salt Spring and we let the car traffic go and had the road to ourselves for the short ride to Salt Spring Island Cheese co. Daniel, the son of owner David Woods, gave us a private tour of the farm and cheese production and we enjoyed fresh baked pizza lunch here. Afterwards, we continued up past Cusheon Lake to Ganges and arrived to Harbour House Hotel, recently renovated and now quite luxurious, it’s the best option in Ganges, within walking distance to restaurants and the waterfront. Salt Spring is known for its music and arts culture. On the night of our arrival, the Cowboy Junkies were playing at the Jam Factory (see Pitchfork Social for the line-up of amazing musicians playing here). We had live music (Tyger Jackson) at the Treehouse Café (line-up of musicians that play here this summer), there was a band playing at the Pub and more live music at other restaurants. On the next night, talented Aussie, Steph Strings was playing with Salt Spring’s own The Selkies (Schuyler, Witman, Leanne Brunelle, and Johanna Peters) a free concert in the Centennial Park. So much great music! We went to sleep with music in our ears.
Day 4
On this day, we opted for the northern loop of Salt Spring. This route has some longer flat sections along the water with lots of cool cafes and farm stands. Our first stop was at the Jam Factory where the Woodshed is located, Heidi Hart’s newest food emporium. I dare you to step into the Woodshed and NOT be overcome with desire. Our next stop was at Hen & Hound, yet another wonderful café along a quiet stretch of coastline. Finally, on the way back into Ganges, we stopped for lunch at the Wild Cider, our new favourite lunch venue on the island, where you can sit overlooking an orchard on a wonderful deck. Afterwards, some of us joined locals for a swim at St. Mary’s Lake where the water was a comfortable 70F.
Back in town, some continued with extra riding and others opted for a hike up Mt. Erskine, for outstanding views over the coast. On this night, it was an “on your own”, an opportunity for people to dine independently but they all wanted to eat together and made for Auntie Pesto’s, an Italian eatery with superb food.
Day 5
Next morning, the group boarded a private boat we had arranged bound for Montague Harbour on Galiano Island. Here, kayaks were waiting for a morning paddle around Parker Island. Seals and other marine creatures bobbed their heads along the way, as if to entice us further along. After three hours, it was back to Montague Harbour for a delicious lunch at Crane & Robin, a superb sea-side café overlooking the harbour. Yum, again. After lunch, we biked back to Sturdies Bay, the hub of the island (by hub, there are a few cafes, an arts center, and blissfully not much more). We opted for dinner at Woodstone Manor, a lovely lodge overlooking meadows that we sometimes stay at on our trips.
Day 6
We awoke to yet another glorious day of sunshine and biked over to the base of Mt. Galiano for a hike to the top. This is a wonderful walk/climb up through forest of Douglas Fir, Western Red Cedar, Arbutus, Big-leaf Maple, and Red Alder to a lookout over other islands. After snacks at the top and descending, we took a moment at the graveyard/cemetery that overlooks Active Pass. There can’t be a more beautiful cemetery site in North America. We then made our way to Galiano’s newest restaurant, the Valley Grill, a funky pop-up taco and gelato restaurant in a beautiful setting. Stay tuned, in the fall of 2024, they are opening the Bistro at Valley Mill, a country bistro, bar, and bakery with its own flour mill. After being fortified, we biked out north as far as Lover’s Leap viewpoint before returning via the less hilly Porlier Pass Road to the Hummingbird Pub and back to Sturdies Bay. For our final night, we always try to have something special happen and I had earlier passed by the hip Yellow House Gallery and music amphitheatre. I stopped by and met a woman from Argentina who happened to have a guitar and when I asked if we might borrow it, she said, no problem, I’ll just leave it on the stage in the guitar stand and when you are done, just leave it behind and I’ll get it in the morning. This could only happen on Galiano and I brought the group over for a wee outdoor concert (one of their group was a talented musician) with prosecco, cold beers from the islands, and snacks. Locals walking by joined in and we had a fun pre-dinner performance. Afterwards, we continued to dinner at Galiano Inn’s oceanside restaurant and toasted a fantastic week with good friends in these enchanting islands.
Day 7
Some departed by sea-plane to Victoria (why not?) and others departed by ferry for onward travel.
If You Go
Great Explorations offers guided biking, hiking, and multi-sport trips from May to October. There is a micro-climate here that extends the season but even in July and August the temperatures are perfect for cycling.
Randonnee Tours offers self-guided biking, hiking and multi-sport trips in the Gulf Islands that can start any day. Your bikes are waiting for you in your start location (usually Victoria but can be tailored to your island of choice) and picked-up at your final location. It’s all seamless. Ready when you are.
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