Cuba on Two Wheels

“No one can predict what will happen in Cuba in the coming years, which is why you must rush there now. As in, right now.” Reif Larsen, NY Times – Havana’s Symphony of Sound

I had always put off going to Cuba, as I wasn’t interested in sitting in Veradero at an all-inclusive resort. I wanted to bike through the country, but stories of pot-holed roads, poor accommodation and bad food put me off. The good news is, things are changing, quickly.

Going to Cuba is still definitely a step back in time. As soon as you arrive to Havana and see the vintage cars driving around (there are at least 700 in Havana alone), you’ll think you landed on a movie set from the 1950’s. On my most recent trip, I was quite surprised with some of the changes that have come to this island in the Caribbean. In addition to the vibrant art and music scene it has long been known for, Havana now boasts new hotels and amazing restaurants; one could easily stay here for a weekend. But to really get to know the country and its people, our advice is to take 8 days and explore the countryside on bike – in Cuba especially, there really is no better way to travel. Central Cuba boasts stunning beaches along its southern coast at Playa Larga and Cienfuegos, Trinidad, and Santa Clara are vibrant and interesting; each provide context for what the country has experienced and what is to come. Americans are starting to visit – contrary to what you read, it is quite easy to get a visa now. In the smaller villages, the casas particularles are not luxurious, but they are certainly clean and comfortable and the hosts as proud and friendly as could be. Live music, as you might guess, is everywhere – The Buenavista Social Club group may be the only band you’ve heard of but there is more musical talent on this island than anywhere I have traveled in the world.

Cycling along the quiet roads along with locals is the best way to experience this country now. On this most recent trip, even in the smaller towns where we stayed, the food was surprisingly very good with lots of variety. We ate lobster, fish, beef, pork and chicken. Every evening restaurant we dined in offered complimentary cuba libres or a mojito.

We met a family cycling on two tandems; the children were 5 yrs and 7 yrs and they were cycling around the whole country. The parents told us it was the safest country they had ever cycled in and that the kids were loving it. We felt a bit guilty with our customized support bus with AC, but everyone acknowledged the benefit of having local guides who showed us sites that the family would never have found on their own. In Trinidad, perhaps my favourite city, we spent a fun evening at the Casa de la Musica salsa dancing with Cubans on a large outdoor dance floor as an amazing band with a dozen musicians played their hearts out. Everyone was happy and smiling and you realized that despite living on so little, Cubans certainly enjoy themselves. They pride themselves on their spirit of community and egalitarianism; my hope is that as the country opens further, that they hold on to this spirit and sense of pride that they have. It’s a moment in time to be treasured.

Robbin McKinney, Owner of Great Explorations

Central Cuba Biking

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